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STOP-MOTION SETS

Posted by apples50000, on 2001-07-16 22:26:07

Sets scale

i have built large scale diaramas in 1/72 scale. and detailed the figures down to eye color. so i know some detailing and set construction and use of materials. war war II secenes: crators, burnt out trucks, tanks, realistic stuff... regular table pepper is great stuff for effects. now that i have some good quality camera equiptment. what is a good scale to work in?

Posted by Nick H, on 2001-07-16 23:55:15

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON Jul-16-01 AT 09:56 PM (PST)[/font][p]Firstly, my hat's off to anyone who can detail eye colour in 1 to 72! For animation, I do human puppets in about 1:6 scale, so they are around 12" tall. (Some people use 8" tall puppets.) But I also have rats, frogs, and insects, and for closeups of those I make full scale copies of small sections of the 1:6 sets. And for wide shots of suburban streets I make 1:24 scale sets. (Because you can buy a wide range of 1:24 model cars, and they're cheaper than 1:18.) I make 1:24 people for these sets, but they are not meant for seeing up close, they just add life to the shot, and help with continuity of action. (You can see what I mean at http://www.picturetrail.com/hilligossnic, the Good Riddance album, 1:24 street set and others.) 1:24 could be good for giant creature stuff too, since it lets your Kong or Godzilla be a handy sized puppet. So it depends partly on the shot, and partly on the supposed size of the characters. Another factor is the camera. If the lens is 2" in diameter, and your figure is 2" tall, even if you could place the figure virtually touching the lens and focus on it, the closest shot you could get would be about from the top of the head to the knees. The minimum focus will usually be around 300 to 500 mm in front fora 35mm still or movie camera. There won't be much depth of field, which is one thing that gives away a miniature. Lenses on a 16mm Bolex are smaller, usually focus closer, and have much more depth of field. (Especially the fabulous Switar 10mm.) If you want a closeup where the head fills the screen, then the head needs to be bigger than the lens. (You could, of course, make a special large scale close-up head.) Also, you can used forced perspective with a bigger scale in the foreground, then a bit smaller, then smaller still. The set doesn't have to be as deep, which saves space and helps with the depth of field as well. I've got away with a 1:6 character with a 1:24 set behind, or a full size rat with the 1:6 set behind - it looks like an extreme wide angle shot with exaggerated perspective, but in fact I use a longer lens to minimize perspective. I'd prefer half as much scale difference, say 1:6 with 1:12 behind, but I use what I've got. You could make workable puppets in 1:12 with your skill for detail, and there's heaps of doll house stuff for sale, but my feeling is you'd tend to shoot everything a bit wide and feel remote from the characters.

Posted by apples50000, on 2001-07-17 19:10:36

to clear up: i did not make stop motion with 1/72. just good looking sences. i like the 1/24 scale. thanks for the info-