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STOP-MOTION SETS

Posted by jordan, on 2003-10-01 07:33:04

lamp posts

how could i make working lamposts for my sets

Posted by Strider, on 2003-10-02 00:28:02

Depending on the scale, you could possibly just use the assembly from a flashlight. You could run wires up the inside of the post. I don't know much about wiring and voltage/amperage etc, but you could find that stuff out maybe from a model railroading site. Though they tend to deal with a much smaller scale than we do. Sorry, I can't be much help on this one.

Posted by David Rosler, on 2003-10-02 02:28:38

Batteries aren't a good idea because of the time required to shoot stop mo, of course, so I'd say try some plain white christmas lights - the kind arranged like "Icecycles", and thread the end light up through a thin brass tube(that means having a few lights in the tube, so check manufacturer's box warnings regarding heat, etc). Note sure what you want to do with the top of it - in what style. For the base, even a painted thread spool might do if it's not a featured, close-up prop. For the bases, you might try those things which either surround or are bases for drawer handles..... you can find a whole selection at places like The Home Depot.) But the Icecycle christmas lights at least give you miniature lights you can plug in for hours at a time. I think they even make extra bright ones.

Posted by Strider, on 2003-10-02 05:48:23

I searched for some doll house lighting fixtures, but they tend to be 1/12 scale, which is just too small. You could probably use something like that anyway, but from what I've seen they tend to run on batteries. There's another way to go. I don't know if youi have photoshop, but if you do, or some image manipulation program, you could just make the lamp posts and not worry about lighting them. Do that in post, and aim a pinspot under it,which just means a small spotlight, or you could just use a halogen clamp lamp from the hardware store shining through a piece of wood with a hole in it. Actually, you might be able to get away with not even showing the top of the posts. Then all you'd have to do is make the posts themselves and get some light shining down from above.

Posted by David Rosler, on 2003-10-02 16:14:45

The post production idea is a good one if lighting is a difficult thing to pull off practically.

Posted by Eric Scott, on 2003-10-02 20:15:25

LED's might work depending upon the scale and brightness required. MicroMark also has some miniature light kits you might be interested in: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82106 http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82590-4C

Posted by Nick H, on 2003-10-06 01:39:57

I found a range of little 12 volt dc lights at an electronics store, some used as red, white, or amber indicator lights, some just little screw-in bulbs with screw sockets to fit. I run them off a transformer that came with a low-voltage downlight for mounting in the ceiling - don't use batteries, for reasons already explained. Some are only 1.5 watts, some 3 watts. I also use 20 watt halogen globes if I need a much stronger light, but often have to switch them on to take the shot, then off again, or they get too hot and melt the lampshade. Often I had to use a pinspot to add to the light that was supposedly thrown by the streetlamp, a little 3 watt light looks bright enough itself but doesn't throw much light onto the set. LEDs weren't bright enough to show up in my overall lighting levels, I was shooting on film and using at least a 500 watt lamp gelled blue for my moonlight.

Posted by Inertiac, on 2003-10-09 16:11:15

Actually For illuminating the moon, if you have it in a scene, you can just take a ping pong ball or something like that, paint it a little with craters, and shoot a flaurescent light at it..even small flaurescent lights have enough brightness to light it up. just an idea.