Stop Motion Animation Forum Archive

THE SMA ARCHIVE

ANIMATION DEPARTMENT

PUPPET MAKING

MINIATURES & SET BUILDING

SPECIAL FX

STOP-MOTION IN FILM

BULLETIN BOARD

MESSAGE BOARD HELP

THE SMA FORUM ARCHIVE

STOP-MOTION SETS

Posted by Brianruns10, on 2012-02-08 10:49:13

Pegboard for Animation Stand

I'm putting the finishing touches on my animation stand. It measure 5x5 with a pretty nifty overhanging camera rig I designed and built. But what's got me hung up is finding peg board for the base, to which I can secure my animated figures. Surely there must be 5 x 5 foot pegboard out there someone? Or would you suggest a different material for using to tie down my figures? Thanks! BR

Posted by bhoffman, on 2012-02-08 11:33:36

Assuming you live in the U.S.... I've never seen pegboard in anything but 4'X 8' maximum sizes, with the thickest being 1/4". But I would think, even if you could find a 5X5 span of it, you would need to support it because it would be pretty bouncy covering that stretch. And if I'm correct about that, then you could just as easily create a surface out of a 4X8 with the support at the seams. Personally, though, I wouldn't use pegboard; the predrilled holes that some people find an advantage, I find a disadvantage. I would just drill a hole exactly where I wanted it. So if I were you, and I just had to have an unsupported 5X5 stretch, I'd look for a sheet of Baltic Birch plywood, which is a high quality plywood and it DOES come in 5X5 sheets. It's more expensive than an equivalent size and thickness of regular plywood, but you usually can't get regular plywood in anything but 4X8 sheets. Baltic birch ply is imported to the U.S. and its thickness is measured in millimeters. Or, since I'm not you and you may have great reasons for using the pegboard, then I think you're stuck creating a seamed version. Can you share pics of your rig?

Posted by DaveHettmer, on 2012-02-08 13:14:43

Pegboard holes tend to be on 1" grids, minimum, which means you end up drilling lots of holes anyway. If the fancy birch mentioned by SFKABO (Stopmotioner Formerly Known As Boy Oyng), another option would be to buy cheaper plywood and assemble a 5x5 section, then laminate some Luaun or Masonite to it. You get firmness from the plywood and a smooth surface from the Luaun or Masonite.

Posted by grecodan, on 2012-02-08 13:26:47

If you go the laminating route, I would choose masonite over Luaun, which tends to splinter easily. I have the bloodied fingers to prove it.

Posted by Nick H, on 2012-02-08 18:48:18

5 x 5 what? Feet? I used pegboard once, but it took 2 layers with the holes lined up to make it stiff enough. It was about 18" x 3 ft with framing around the outside - any bigger and I would have put some framing in the middle to stop it flexing. I normally use 12mm (1/2") particle board, and drill holes where the characters will walk. As I re-use it, there are more and more holes. It's sturdy enough to sit on a 2 ft x 4 ft rostrum with framing around the outside - sometimes it overhangs a bit so it can be a bit bigger. The bigger 6 ft x 3 ft standard rostrums have a piece of framing across the middle, dividing it into two 3 ft x 3 ft sections, and that works fine with no extra support in the middle. You could go with the thicker 19mm (3/4") particle board. For my pub set I pre-drilled a grid of holes in the particle board, about 1" apart, and painted it with a "carpet" pattern that disguised the holes. That's probably how I would do a stage for practicing on. It's tedious drilling the holes, but once it's done you can keep using it for a long time.