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STOP-MOTION SETS

Posted by Warhead, on 2010-03-10 18:20:17

Peg board: good for a stop-mo set?

So, my Dad and I were discussing how I should build a set for my science fair project. He suggested a peg board. Is this a viable alternative to drilling millions of holes in a set floor?

Posted by alex uranga, on 2010-03-10 19:58:20

I'm pretty sure that's what was used on Gerald's Last Day

Posted by DaveHettmer, on 2010-03-10 20:09:06

Look again. The floor had many holes that weren't evenly spaced. An alternative to pre-drilling millions of holes is to drill them when you need them.

Posted by Nick H, on 2010-03-10 20:41:10

I used a peg board for some classes - the board is a bit thin and flexible, so we used 2 layers with the holes lined up and that worked fine. Mostly I use 12mm (1/2") chipboard, and drill the holes where I need them before each shot. Sometimes I hide them with plasticine, sometimes I just let 'em hang out in plain view like Jriggity did. For one set, a pub, I had regularly spaced holes pre-drilled over the whole area, but disguised them by the painted carpet pattern . The holes were in the dark bits and unless you shot them from up high looking down at them, they weren't noticeable.

Posted by Warhead, on 2010-03-11 07:13:56

Strange, my Dad suggested the same thing Nick did! :o Also, this is just going to be a practice/test set, used for exercises and tests. For bigger projects, I build an original set. In addition, I have an idea for how this set is gonna work. The idea is, I have multiple interchangeable set pieces with pegs attached to them. I temporarily put the pegs into the holes, and things like tables, mattes, desks and other bits and bobs can be attached to the set. Does this sound cost-efficent?

Posted by Rocketspaceboy, on 2010-03-10 23:03:34

Nicks suggestion is what I would do if I was forced to use Peg Board. I use MDF in different thicknesses for different sets and stages. Geralds Last Day wasn't Peg Board but it was drilled a ton of times. I saw it for myself at Justins Pad.

Posted by Nick H, on 2010-03-11 23:39:50

That sounds perfect for training and exercises - sets with pegs, a great idea! For out classes we made up a board by cutting the sheet of pegboard in half and doubling it, then screwing it onto a frame of pine with legs that raised it high enough above a normal table top to get your hands under it with the tiedowns. It should have been a little taller. Here are 2 views of it: http://www.stopmotionanimation.com/dc/user_files/12835.jpg We didn't have any sets, so your version is better!



Posted by prammaven, on 2010-03-15 21:17:47

Lately I've been using beeswax for sticking puppets' feet down as long as they're not walking. For shots where they have to be screwed to the set floor, I drilled a ton of holes in an old square coffee table top. It has a frame which elevates it off the stage by several inches. Because the sets are made of cardboard with clay on top, it's easy to work a screw up through the soft floor. In the future I want to get one of those display racks with diamond-shaped hole patterns like LIO suggested several years ago. Having all of those holes so close together seems like it would be more convenient than pegboard. -Don

Posted by mattosaurus, on 2010-03-16 13:05:16

[quote]I used a peg board for some classes - the board is a bit thin and flexible, so we used 2 layers with the holes lined up and that worked fine.[/quote] Thanks for the idea Nick! I can't wait to use it for my projects. :7

Posted by timsmyth, on 2010-03-21 02:15:56

Pegboard works great, but might need some reinforcement around the edges, or double it up, like Nick and Matty suggested. Plus it's easy. All of my movies were done with that type of animation table. Tim

Posted by prammaven, on 2010-03-22 20:17:03

The thing about pegboard is if your holes are not lined up perfectly and your screw is near the diameter of the hole, you're going to have it go in crooked. I'm not sure how it happened, but I ran into this problem on the main stage and had to stop using it because the holes didn't come close enough to the edge (due to the 2x4-based design) Of course, a drill will take care of any crooked holes... One thing I recommend you not do, is sand your pegboard if you are working with clay. Just leave it glossy, it sticks much better.