Stop Motion Animation Forum Archive











Posted by CraftCadet, on 2008-09-07 18:02:24

Progress of my set

Hi all, thought you may all like to see the progress. Lighting and shot positioning to be adjusted. A of lot things have come to my attention doing these photos. A view of the whole bedroom set ----------------------------------------------------------------- Issues with lighting showing through the foam board (the wall kind of glows) and under the set. Any suggestions on how to block light would be great. ------------------------------------------------------------------ A view through the door. I still need to paint the rafters and make the roof material. Its going to look like a thatched roof. -----------------------------------------------------------------= I think I over did the paint work on the wall. A bit too much black airbrushing. I may go over with some brown. ------------------------------------------------------------------- I still have loads to do, I have to start making furnature and props. But work is demanding now. Let me know what you think Cheers Tony

Posted by castlegardener, on 2008-09-07 18:14:58

it looks like a great set...looks very well done...i don't know if you noticed it or if it is on purpose but there is light shining through under the wall, just a tiny little thing.... nice looking set...

Posted by CraftCadet, on 2008-09-07 18:22:02

Thanks. Yes lighting is kind of problem I need to block out areas. It not only comes under the set but also through the foam board walls, they kind of glow. I may have to change my light or find a way of blocking areas. I'm using a daylight lamp maybe its just to bright? Tony

Posted by bobharling1, on 2008-09-07 19:32:31

or you can add a baseboard, just a thought

Posted by Nick H, on 2008-09-07 20:51:35

Set's looking good! You don't see many sets with full ceilings, it makes it hard to get the lighting into the set, but it will really add something. You may need a coat of black paint on the back of the foam board, or sheets of black paper or something opaque. I had the same problem with shoes painted up to look like leather under normal lighting, but were latex and too translucent. They glowed when I hit them with backlighting in a way leather shoes never would. I use black Gaffer tape when light comes in under walls like that. Or maybe a length of timer on the back, sitting flat on the set floor, will do it. The black spray on the walls is a bit too sprayed looking, as well as a bit wide. Try washes of thin paint, applied with a brush, some splatters, maybe dab off some of the excess with a paper towel or sponge leaving it to collect near the beams and in hollows where the towel doesn't reach as well.

Posted by madair, on 2008-09-07 23:11:03

Wow! Nice set! I especially like that shot through the roof. I would allow myself the option of being able to get cool angles like that. Keep it modular. Very nice craftsmanship!

Posted by CraftCadet, on 2008-09-08 13:57:37

Thanks Mike. I have made it so each wall can be removed to get a different angled shot. I'm also thinking of building a base that rotates so the whole set revolves to get panning shots. Thanks Nick, I will try some of your painting tips, as I sprayed the black on it seem much paler than when it dried. I made a thin wash of black and burnt umber acrylic paint to airbrush which dried to a harsh matt finish. I need to practice more with the look I wish to achieve. I will definately use your light blocking ideas. Thanks again And Thanks for your thoughts Bob. All appreicated. I really have to think about the floor too. Tony

Posted by Marcamus, on 2008-09-10 21:41:41

Looks very good, I too especially like the rafters, makes for an interesting look. I'm looking forward to seeing how it comes out when its finished.

Posted by Strider, on 2008-09-11 00:05:43

Foil would block that light, and can be easily bent into whatever shape you need to block it where it comes in under the wall and under the roof edge too. Great job on the rafters!!! But hey man... when will you learn your lesson? Quit posting naked puppet pics.... P Bucket is very upset about that sort of thing apparently! }( They got me on the same thing recently (only mine was little puppet boobies :o :o )

Posted by Nick H, on 2008-09-11 00:34:35

Naked Radkins could definitely scar a young mind! Clothed ones are a bit of a challenge for some. Now I'm tempted to post my Adam and Eve puppet pics there, just to see what they do!

Posted by Strider, on 2008-09-11 02:08:22

Hey, Veronica was wearing a bodystocking of athletic underwrap! Well, it WAS a bit transparent, you could see the stainless steel ball bearings right through it. I guess that does it for some guys... machinists maybe. :P

Posted by Nick H, on 2008-09-11 02:39:57

I've posted an image of the carved marionette-puppet versions of Adam and Eve, and a flying fembot with polished metal boobies... so far it seems to be ok with Photobucket. But I didn't put any provocative tags on them like "Woo hoo getcher full frontal noodie pics here!" Anyway, looking forward to the next stage of the setbuilding. Aluminum foil sounds like a good lightproofing material that can tuck in where it's needed. It might throw some reflections onto any outdoor set seen through a window if it's the silver stuff. If it does, some dark cloth over it wil fix it. Blackwrap is ideal but not available at your local supermarket.

Posted by CraftCadet, on 2008-09-11 13:47:56

Nick I love your Adam and Eve animation it truly is genius. I have to warn you that my pics sat quite happily for 2 weeks on photobucket before they were identified as invioltaion of the terms and condition. I have since read the terms and conditions and 'represented nudity is forbiden' I fear that people who actually believe the world was created 30,000 years ago and that we are all decended from Adam and Eve are running the bucket. Thanks Strider the foil Idea is great and I have to admit I my lack of learning to follow the rules at P Bucket come down to the fact that I think Im living in 2008 and that people have died for the right to freedom of expression. Silly me. Now I'm going to wash myself of these unplesant thoughts and get back to working on my set. Thanks for all your help and feed back Tony

Posted by cashc0w, on 2008-11-05 21:51:50

Hey Craftcadet love your set. the home scene looks like something that im wanting to create for a film project i need to do in school this year. I was wondering if you followed any sort of instructions or did you just get a buncha wood and chop it up and build that thing? Im very much interested in your process as i am not a very "Handy" person thanks

Posted by Strider, on 2008-11-06 09:51:12

Hey, I had a pic deleted from PBucket, it was Veronica, and she was wearing a bodystocking! So, technically not even nudity! I wonder if they'd allow Michelangelo sculpts? Guess we gotta start photochopping in fig leaves!

Posted by castlegardener, on 2008-11-06 01:08:55

If you post some photos of the house you wish to build we/I can help you figure out how to build it.

Posted by CraftCadet, on 2008-11-06 15:32:48

Hi Cashcow (great name) I did quite a bit of research in the library, there were a few books on old english cottages with some very good illustrations on beam structures. I had already made my puppet so I new what kind of scale the wall would be in relation to my puppet. I then made a floor plan. The only piece of wood i have used for the set is the floor. Every thing else is made out of Foam Board, which is a firm material made from two sheets of card with a stiff foam sandwich between them. It comes in different thicknesses 3mm up to i think 20mm. It can easerly be cut with a scapel or craft knife. and glues with all paper glues, I use UHU cement or a glue gun and if sticking large areas PVA white glue. the walls were made with 5mm board and the rafters were 12mm. the beams going up the walls are 1mm thick card cut with a scapel and stuck to the walls. the whole interior was then painted with Acrylic paints. A word of warning about painting i have discovered is that the paint seems to shrink when drying and so a curved wall. I managed to salvage them by gluing strips of board across the back. I think the best way to make a set like this is take large sheet of paper and draw out a plan so you have some idea of what you are making. I did, but i also allowed for those little whims of inspiration that happen when your in the middle of building it. Hope this helps. Any more info you'd like just ask. Cheers Tony

Posted by CraftCadet, on 2008-11-06 15:51:05

It does begger belief doesn't it. After all we all are naked under our clothes. I have been a bit held up with work and also very painful shoulder and arm from too much work. Grrr x( very frustrating. Rest is the order of the day Grrrr x( I know this is a slow business but! Grrr Cheers Tony

Posted by cashc0w, on 2008-11-27 15:19:21

can I ask how big your set is and big your model is? Im not too sure about all this scale calculating stuff, i was thinking about just building my set to a nice adequate size then building my model accordingly. would you advise against this? Also, Does anyone have any experience with making/painting wallpaper?

Posted by Nick H, on 2008-11-06 20:54:37

Looks like my puppets just aren't as sexy as Veronica! ;( Adam and Eve have been there a couple of months now with their Sculpey bits hanging out, and no complaints. With a fairly straight set like that I would draw it up first, with some dimensons, then cut all the beams at once. With a wonky set where lines are curved or at odd angles and no two measurements are the same, that doesn't work so well. I still sketch it, but I make each piece to fit the place where it goes. So there's a lot of holding the piece up to the set, then trimming a bit more off the end, and checking it again before glueing it on. It kind of grows organically. I have a bandsaw handy so I mostly cut the timbers from wood or ply and hot glue them on.

Posted by castlegardener, on 2008-11-06 22:06:25

one thing you can try is to look at house framing books. It helps to have some knowledge of how buildings are built, the more you know about real life the more realistic you can make your props. Even if your set is not realistic in style, even if it is cartoony, you need to know how things are really built so you can bend the rules.

Posted by CraftCadet, on 2008-11-29 18:30:15

The puppet is 10 inches (25.5cm) tall and the set walls are 14 inches (35.5cm) tall. the room floor area 20 x 17 inches (51cm x 40.3cm) Hope that helps. With wallpaper you could make your design on a computer and then print as much as you need. All the best Tony