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Posted by zac-uk, on 2007-12-22 18:54:21
'Wild Walls' Set Help / Links?
Hello there, i've recently got into stop motion now that i got myself a personal space and a steady income and a crafts shop about 20 minutes away.
I'm constructing sets such as a small laboratory, and wards along a lunatic asylum (psychiatric hopsital) that caters the main character after he goes berserk with his test and kills his wife...
I have large peices of wood for the base and a sturdy table, a few lights and the basic pencil sketch of where everything in the lab will go. It contains 4 even walls and one door. I read before on this forum about 'wild walls' which is similar to effects used in 'prison break' where the cell walls are able to split to allow for filming.
I would like to know how to do this please, i tried a google search, but maybe im just rusty, could someone please give me a little advice?
Thanks a lot!
Oh, and happy holidays!
Posted by castlegardener, on 2007-12-22 19:03:24
I have never done a wild wall but if I needed to do one I would fasten all the props securely to the wall (like pictures or shelves) and build the wall as a separate prop. I would slide it into place for shooting and screw it down on the backside. Take your photos with it in place but when I need to shift the camera I would just unscrew the wall, remove it, place your camera there and shoot your next scene. Whenever you needed it back in the shot just reattach it. Just watch the corners and the baseboard area or any area that touches the other walls. You might want to use the same screw holes or mark it somehow to ensure it lines back up when you replace it.
On some sets they shoot through the wall like through a hole in the wall and then just cover up the hole with a mirror or a picture or some prop. Then you are just moving a prop instead of the whole wall. Hope this helps.
Posted by Strider, on 2007-12-22 20:10:04
A trick I've seen (and I wish I knew where the pics are posted) is to attach a strip of wood along the bottom edge of your wall board (hotglue and/or screws work well for this) like a flange, and you can then either clamp or, as John said, screw it down to your table. You could drill through and use your tie-down screws to attach it (woodscrews might get loose with repeated attaching/detaching).
You can also attach another flange along one vertical edge so you can clamp it (or screw it) to the slightly protruding edge of it's neighbor wall. hard to understand just from description I know, I'll see if I can find pics or I'll sketch something up and post it.
Ok, here we go:
Sorry, I don't draw very well with a mouse!! But hopefully the idea comes across. This is also a little trick people use to make re-useable (and easily resizeable) mold boxes.
Posted by youneekusername, on 2007-12-22 21:57:29
That's a good idea. If you're using something like foamboard (mainly what I use for set walls/floors) you could just attach each wall with sticky-tack and easily remove it when you wanted.
Posted by chestnut, on 2007-12-22 22:24:37
The term "wild walls" is not familiar to me -- but I think I've done the technique that John and Mike mention.
There's a lip that protrudes from underneath the set. The wall sits on it. Just clamp the wall onto the side of the set. Very handy.
I learned this trick from Marc Spess' book, [b][a href="http://www.animateclay.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=1"]Secrets of Clay Animation Revealed[/a][/b]. It's got a bunch of tricks that I haven't seen anywhere else -- I recommend it.
Posted by Strider, on 2007-12-23 00:03:56
Yeah, there ya go! And that pic looks a lot better'n my mouse-drawing skillz! With that kind of setup you're limited to putting the walls along the edge of the rectangular set floor, where as with the type I drew above you can place them wherever you want.
Posted by Toggo, on 2007-12-23 09:14:10
I use a similar method on my walls as well. Originally it was simply to give them some stability to free stand but has been useful with clamps as well. The one thing I did not do was put a 1x2 on the vertical edge which would have made it lean a little less. I solve that by duct taping the top edges to pull them closer. You can see some of it here: http://www.cjandbuster.com/project_buster_2.html
Posted by utako omori, on 2007-12-24 14:41:29
what i did (but don't have time this week to attach some pics) is that i had metal frames made out of left over angle iron, that i just screw into the table as needed... the beauty is, i attach the actual decorated masonite wall with either magnets or glue onto the metal frame (and depending where the wall is needed, i reposition & screw down.
i tried 3 times to make a wood frames as prototypes but finding a cheap solid enough wood was difficult and even harder to assemble to a flat enough frame that wouldn't eventually warp. by chance i knew somebody who could weld and voila: problem solved.