THE SMA FORUM ARCHIVE
Posted by jordanuk, on 2007-07-22 06:26:44
on my Terrace houses set i just stuck on pictures of doors onto the brick paper background. i was thinking how could i make miniture realistic doors maybe made out of wood? cheers.
Posted by Strider, on 2007-07-22 06:45:11
I made a non-functioning door to stick in the wall of my Buster running rig:
You can see the edge of it here, and the tools I used to build it. The hardest part was the doorframe, which I made by just gluing together a couple lengths of wood I got from here:
The site is called National [b]Balsa[/b], but be sure to get BASSWOOD - balsa is too fragile and breaks way too easily! Basswood is good lightweight stuff that's real easy to work with, but a lot stronger than balsa.
Get some planks and sticks and blocks in various sizes, and some sheets for things like the door panel itself (if you insist on making it from wood - I used a thick stiff paper kind of like cardboard, but my door didn't need to open/close). I just hotglued a couple lengths of basswood together to make a crude frame that looked (a little bit) like it had been routered - well sort of! The illusion would definitely break up if I shot a static closeup of it! BNut it just slides by quickly a few times, so i doubt anyone could tell - I just wanted that slightly complex 3 dimensional look for the frame.
For hinges you could just use armature wire glued on the back side of the door, that way it will stay right where you put it for each frame. Or if you insist on more realism, you could get some tiny hinges from a dollhouse outfitter to pop on there (and still put some wire on the back to make it animatable).
You might also be able to just get some dollhouse moldings like these: [u]http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4911[/u]. 1" = 1' scale, so it's really made for apprx 6" tall dolls - but I think it would work for slightly larger puppets.
Oh, and for the knob I just hotglued a ball bearing onto a little piece of aluminum tubing. Could have used some kind of decorative thingamabob around it though. But I wanted a kind of industrial steel door look, nothing fancy, so it works.
Posted by Nick H, on 2007-07-22 20:23:13
If I want to see the wood grain on a door, I use 3mm ply cut into strips and panels. I make sure my grain for each piece runs in the right direction. For a frame-and-panel door, I cut one piece of ply the full size of the door. It can be both the upper and lower panels. It holds everything together. Then I stick strips on top of it to make the framing.
For a painted door, I just use card. One big piece, the size of the whole door, same as with the plywood doors. Then, to get the look of the mouldings, I use 2 more layers of card to build up the framing. The top layer edge around the panels is inset a little from the middle layer. This can be done with some card, some pva white glue, a steel ruler, and a snap-off blade knife. The butcher shop door is made this way.
Since this is a shop, the upper panel is clear perspex.
This method works just as well in a smaller 1:12 scale as in this 1:6 scale. Just use thinner card, or fewer layers.
I also used the smallest available timber mouldings from a hardware store for the red frames around the shop windows. They just work at 1:6 scale, but probably not for anything smaller, for that you'd do better at a dollhouse shop.
Posted by jordanuk, on 2007-07-25 07:47:31
thanks again anymore questions i will let you know , cheers
Posted by Toggo, on 2007-08-07 21:38:25
The door I made for my garage/workshop set was a piece of mdf board and the trim was tongue depressors. I use them for alot fo things..the handle is a small drawer pull. worked great for my use. I used acrylic paints and inks for a wash to give it a slightly grimy look. here's a pic: