THE SMA FORUM ARCHIVE
Posted by Skellingtonfan, on 2005-09-24 14:44:46
How to make props and replacements-Resin?Foam?
Hello everyone, I recentley got the N.B.C. DVD and let me just say that it is awesome. But anyway, I was watching the special features and they said that the water from the fountain was made using a replacement cycle. I understand how that works, but I would like to know how someone would go about making these things, I assume that you would probably sculpt it and mold it first, but what would you use to create the actual water? And even just regular props- from a table to a kettle to a........a.........fountain, what on earth would you use to fill the mold with, and where would you buy it? If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. just a general question, not really looking for specific answers, just input.
Posted by Strider, on 2005-09-27 18:52:17
You can get clear resins through a place like www.sculpt.com for water replacement cycles. For regular props there's no need to make a mold... just make the props themselves from whatever materials are available. Take a look at Nick's website (located in Links) for some great ideas.
Posted by Skellingtonfan, on 2005-09-27 16:12:10
Posted by Toadster, on 2005-09-27 23:10:45
There is so much you can do with styrene plastic and a heat gun! Take our kettle for instance. Let's make a simple dome shaped one an inch in diameter. you can heat form styrene without a vacuum-form if the shape is relatively simple. Go to the hobby shop look for the plastruct or evergreen rack and buy some white styrene plastic, say .040 thickness . If you have a really hot hairdryer that may work but for our purposes a small hobby heat gun used for R/C model airplanes is ideal. If you can afford to pick one up at the hobby store do so, you'll use it all the time.
Once home, gather up a staple gun or some tacks, a broom some heavy scissors with a wooden broomstick, and two paint stirring sticks or short (10 inch or so) pieces of light lumber, 1x2 or so.
Cut a 4 inch square from the styrene and staple or tack the pieces of wood to either side. these will be your handle for the heat-forming process. Tape, clamp or strap the broom to a table leg so the broomstick with the handle end (I assume it's a rounded wooden handle) is pointing up. Warm the plastic with your heat gun. this works best if the hot air stream is pointing up, and you can hold the plastic directly over it. Heat the plastic until an area in the middle softens and droops, then pull it over the top of the broom handle. With any luck, you have a nice round plastic dome which can be the basis for a little round kettle. Carefully trim the excess away, maybe sand it flat with an emery board or sandpaper. You can use cardboard or plastic for the base, and some armature wire for the handle. paint it copper or silver, or use some of that neat chrome-look adhesive-backed foil from the hobby store.
I've actually used this on a fairly large scale with helpers and gloves to make lots of plastic shapes.
For water and landscape stuff, take a look at taxidermy supply houses like Wasco or Research mannikins. They have different kinds of fake water One product called wonder Water looks like it is used like friendly plastic. Also, taxidermy places are much cheaper for casting resins and such than special effects supply houses. Selection is just not as broad.
Well, i've gone on enough:+
Posted by minieffects, on 2005-10-08 23:41:26
well as far as the material you can use clear casting urethane or clear acrylic resin, or water clear epoxy.Make sure you read the spec sheets on the material to check the cure times and demold times. Some products can take up to 24 hours before you can demold.
here are some vendors I use in the US.
these guys are re-sellers
hope this helps
Posted by Nick H, on 2005-09-28 22:05:07
Hey, I should look into that Wonder Water stuff. In the meantime, heres some things I've used.
A stream of water can be made from clear cling wrap or cellophane wrapped and twisted around a length of wire. You change the cling wrap a little each fame to keep it alive. Bending the wire will change the arc of the water stream. I unwrapped my sandwich, then used the cling wrap to make the splashing water in O Pollo Mio (at Stopmoshorts, in Archives, Past Events, must have been about the 3rd round of films).
You can also use clear Perspex (plexiglass, acrylic sheet) which can be cut, sanded, or heated and bent. You can build up drips and blobs with clear 5 minute epoxy resin, so that several plexiglass pieces with the overall shape of the water can have ripples added in epoxy, with a ripple a little further down on each piece, with the last one matching up with the first one so you can loop them over and over.
If you need to sculpt a set of really nice water shapes you will have to make a silicone mould of each shape, then cast it in clear polyester resin.
Posted by Skellingtonfan, on 2005-10-10 21:43:12
Thanks for all your responses guys. Some great suggestions Nick H., I think I'll definitley take note of using cling wrap for moving water. I was actually at a hobby shop a while ago and I picked up some awesome water pellets meant for train set ups. When you heat it up you can just ad blue dye or whatever and you can use a mold if necessary. Plus its really quick and easy to use.
Posted by Nick H, on 2005-10-10 22:28:24
Thanks for the tip Skellingtonfan! I've never seen those pellets. I have some Friendly Plastic that is probably similar, but isn't clear enough.